New York Fashion Week F/W 2012: 3.1 Phillip Lim

There's a few things I learned last season in London. One, it's more difficult to cover shows than one might expect - self-imposed deadlines, running from show to show, editing photos nonstop, etc. Two, the experience at a show is immensely different from simply viewing photos and writing a review - it's a production, with music, lighting, brief written summaries of the collection. And seeing the clothing move in person is entirely distinctive. Both of these lessons are probably obvious, but still, worth noting. That said, it is hard to be fully impacted by a collection when reading another person's review and viewing secondhand photos.



Another confession: I don't look at every designer's photos. I don't have the time or patience. I have a few starting points - designers I've watched for a while, images that come up on my Tumblr dashboard, word of mouth, et cetera. Lim falls under the first category. While it is a must-see every season, I wasn't incredibly enthralled at first. And then it haunted me, in a totally benign and even delightful manner.

This collection, to be frank, is badass. Phillip Lim used the abstract idea of superheroes when designing this collection - as is evident through the capes, graphic qualities, gilded booties, translucent belts, and overall silhouettes. The inspiration of superheroes might easily lead to the cliched punchy colors with capes and tights, but Lim avoids that with sumptuous knits and sophisticated cuts. But there's an element of mystery, too, with light and dark taken in both a literal and perhaps metaphoric sense.

xox Catherine

Photos via Style.com

New York Fashion Week F/W 2012: Michael Angel

Michael Angel, digital print aficionado, strikes a balance between wispy, watercolor-like qualities and sharp, mechanical and digitized. There's certainly a smokey aura present; the mirrored prints resemble faint clouds of cigarette smoke.



While the smokiness is generally limited to prints, the supposed inspiration also breathes in silhouette. The asymmetric-hemmed navy dress is significantly less structured than most other pieces, but it almost mimics the motion of smoke. Conversely, chunky gray knitwear is a particularly dense, stagnant cloud. Also worth noting is the clever attention to details - the rounded, three-dimensional collar of the over sized jumper is repeated in lighter weight shifts.

xox Catherine

Photos via Style.com

New York Fashion Week F/W 2012: NAHM

NAHM, a relatively new line by Ally Hilfiger (yes, that Hilfiger) and Nary Manivong, is known for its staple shirt dresses, but this season it moves into new territory. Hilfiger cites the powerful, fearless woman as a source of inspiration, but there's a clear nod to the 1920s in selection of prints. Sometimes we just like pretty things - I'm a sucker for the coral, pale aqua, and brick red. This is another collection that could very easily be translated into looks for off the runway... wink, wink.



And look closely... Loeffler Randall collaborated on the footwear for this collection. Mirrored platforms in black or the same wallpaper print? Sold.

xox Catherine

Photos via Style.com

New York Fashion Week F/W 2012: Calla

While I tend to eschew anything intensely twee or saccharine in my own sartorial choices out of fear of looking like a child, the sweet aesthetic sometimes speaks to me. I have a rule, though: it mustn't be all peter pan collars, doll-like silhouettes, and cotton candy hues. Newcomer Calla Haynes' eponymous line does include the latter two, but an exception to my rule arises when there's something a little strange, or sour perhaps, appears.



Any notion of twee disappears after the first few looks; speckled skinny pants and a matching jacket, a figure-conscious dress with marble-like prints, a mod-silhouette geometric tweed coat over a fuchsia turtleneck dress, and a tweed motorcycle-esque jacket with matching shorts are anything but doll-like. The contrast of sweet and "sour" work quite well in this collection; it can often seem contrived or derivative - the floral babydoll dress and combat boots combination is not the only means to create this dichotomy. And let's be serious, for a second... that coat is amazing. Seriously.

xox Catherine

Photos via Style.com

New York Fashion Week F/W 2012: Organic by John Patrick

While I do love a healthy dose of quirkiness, each season I'm drawn to a few particular labels for their wearability (Rachel Comey, Steven Alan, Organic by John Patrick, to name a few). Sleek, casual, and practical are terms that come to mind, and I often wouldn't mind donning these designers' looks from head-to-toe.



Patrick uses Julia Margaret Cameron's portrait entitled "A Beautiful Vision" (see here) as a source of inspiration as well as a title for his entire autumn collection. Cameron, a nineteenth-century British photographer who began her work in her late forties, was largely interested in the concept of beauty in her photography career, which is perhaps something Patrick played upon with ideas of femininity and masculinity. On a more basic level, the textured taupe fabric, quilted Barbour-esque outerwear, trench silhouettes and prints are all a nod to classic British heritage.

xox Catherine

Photos via Style.com

New York Fashion Week F/W 2012: Creatures of the Wind

There's something undeniably kooky about newcomers Shane Gabier and Chris Peters's fall collection for Creatures of the Wind. There's folksy, circus-meets-couture vibes abound, which isn't much of a surprise when taking into account that the inspiration stemmed from seventeenth-century fantasy tales.



What I love about this collection is that it doesn't take itself too seriously. Designers often derive inspiration from a muse, whether real or imagined, who would wear their clothes - or perhaps just a general "for the woman who..." It's evident that these garments are a well-refined extension of the designers' imagination. But it's not all fantasy and whimsy; these looks would translate beautifully on the slightly-eccentric dresser.

xox Catherine

Photos via Style.com

NYFW S/S 2012: Steven Alan

Steven Alan, already making me long for summer days spent outside in the grass, preferably frolicking and/or picnicking. The characteristically preppy brand sends out pieces that are happy and simple without being too saccharine.



Always taking a lightweight approach to fashion, these garments are for everyday wear and tear. Perhaps not so much tear, one would hope. There's a youthful yet clean vibe to the collection, evocative of summers past.

All images via style.com

xox Catherine

NYFW S/S 2012: Suno

Normally showcasing bold colors and prints, the designers behind Suno eschewed color in exchange for something a bit more reserved than usual. There's still reds and yellows appearing, but it's an interesting turn for the label. Granted, the print combinations are still present, adding a dose of quirkiness.



The silhouettes become noticeably more feminine. Perhaps this collection is simply more wearable, head to toe.



Different can be a good thing, but in this case, it's merely not a bad thing.

All images via style.com

xox Catherine

NYFW S/S 2012: Rachel Comey

I'm sure I've mentioned my love for Rachel Comey's designs many a time on this blog, but usually my fascination focuses on her footwear creations. This time around, I'm still lusting over the shoes while giving equal attention to her garments. Never one too be frilly or twee, Comey's design aesthetic is always very "cool," for lack of better words.



We see a variety of prints, as usual, including digitalized cable knits and a multitude of stripes. Color does show up and the colorblocking is done well, but the monochromatic pieces steal the show - there's quite a bit of dimension to be seen.



Of course, none of this is to say an orange sandal isn't perfectly welcome. Rachel Comey, you've done it again.

All images via style.com

xox Catherine

PS Expect more belated NYFW review posts - my cold is getting worse and has left me holed up in my flat as opposed to constantly out and about.