Paris Fashion Week S/S 2012: Stella McCartney

This collection reaffirms my love for McCartney's sleep feminine aesthetic. Consisting of tailored blazers with curved lapels, fitted dresses with mesh insets, and retro pajama-esque garb, Stella gives her unique spin on the clean and classic.



What I love about Stella McCartney's work is that it's simple at the core, but never boring. Something is always ever-so-slightly zany, in the best way possible. Careful attention is paid to technical design and construction, but her collections always epitomize fun dressing for the smart, confident woman.



Quite ironically, I can't think of much to say that's remotely insightful. So I'll leave you with this: sigh.

xox Catherine

All images via style.com

Paris Fashion Week S/S 2012: Rick Owens

Horizontal strips of light serve as the background for Rick Owens' show - almost resembling an enlarged electric bug zapper. Always one for provocativeness, he dubbed it a "gateway to heaven." Religious, spiritual references are evident, with strong elements of restraint despite the lack of typical restraining fashion - bondage devices and the like. For his S/S 2012 collection, Owens went against the idea of "horny dressing" in exchange for "stately elegance."

There's a medieval sense of display - mostly monochromatic, voluminous pieces distract from the presentation of the woman's body. Her head is the point of prominence, in a similar fashion to popes of the time.




Rick Owens makes a statement on originality of the individual, and perhaps the idea behind this collection is more powerful than the clothing itself. It's hard to say that though, given the impeccable design and creation of these garments. We'll call it a tie.

xox Catherine

Images via style.com

London Fashion Week S/S 2012: Mary Katrantzou

If there's any show I wish I could have attended during LFW - meaning, if I had an invitation and didn't have art history class the same time - it's Mary Katrantzou's. I find it quite easy to be entranced by Katrantzou's bold, artistic designs. Though only on the scene for a few seasons (A/W 2009), she's become a powerful new voice. There's quite a difference between her work and simple garments created by other designers. This collection is indeed less architectural, and hence more wearable than prior seasons', but there's a depth to these pieces that not all designers can conjure.

Inspired by the contrast of man and nature, she adopts her influences in a literal sense - floral prints appear in a setting, a field. Motifs from nature are digitalized, blown up to the point of being unrecognizable.



I keep mentioning art vs. fashion and whether they are entirely exclusive. I don't believe they are; it's quite evident through many designers that fashion is a wearable extension of simple "art." When I question my purpose as an artist, I can't help but think studying fashion would be an appropriate path. I suppose my training as a designer at this point is absolutely minimal - but isn't that what university is for? To guide one? To teach? Yes? Yes.

xox Catherine

Images via style.com

EDIT: For an interview with Mary Katrantzou on her most recent collection, check out the latest issue of Lula.

London Fashion Week S/S 2012: Joanne Stoker

In the Exhibition at Somerset House, I came across these artistic, colorful, architectural creations by Joanne Stoker - a 2009 graduate of Cordwainers College. A collection full of heels, naturally, I was enthralled. Though a few elements seem slightly derivative, it's hard not to be mesmerized by these wonderfully eccentric shoes.

xox Catherine

London Fashion Week S/S 2012: Cristina Sabaiduc

Located in the basement of a seemingly office-like space, show goers were ushered into the middle of a room surrounded with a white catwalk. Applied to the walls with magnetic strips were pieces of cloth, though I didn't quite know what to make of the setup. No one had any idea where to look, definitely giving a mysterious atmosphere - but crammed into a space with so many women wearing tall heels, I don't think anyone knew where to look.

The show began as models appeared, wearing basic, revealing bodysuits. Each model circled the room, pausing to be clothed from the garments adorning the walls, with assistance from a few dressers.







The two dimensional wall decorations transformed into dresses, tops, pants, skirts, before our very eyes; although most of the audience had trouble seeing this process. This was a bold first attempt at a show during London Fashion Week, but some aspects fell slightly short. After this, I'd be disappointed to see the designer try a more traditional show, but perhaps seating could be arranged to allow for better views of the work.

Sabaiduc was inspired by the contrast of the natural environment and industrial waste, evident through patterns and textures present within the collection. The concept behind the clothing is arguably stronger than the design aesthetic - which again, is something that we're eager to see improved upon.

xox Catherine

All photos by Catherine Everett

London Fashion Week S/S 2012: J. JS Lee

As I walked into the Portico Room, I saw this would be an intimate presentation. Seated what I suppose would be considered front row (though there weren't many other rows), I was pleasantly surprised to see Susie Bubble take a seat next to yours truly. She relocated before the show started, but I was quite starstruck!





The collection is very sleek, quite minimal. There's no frills or anything very extravagant, though subtle shine does show in a look or two - influenced by the way her niece's cotton candy had stuck onto her clothing. Jackie Lee was inspired by 1920's silhouettes - long and dropped waists, box pleats, and a slightly subdued color palette. The shapes are slightly androgynous, but details are undeniably feminine.






The simple shapes allow playfulness within the garments themselves, whether via light, color, or texture. There's asymmetric hemlines, pencil skirts over knee-length trousers, slight ombre effects, and tied backs. The color palette is mostly monochromatic, but highlights of cobalt and peach appear.

Jackie Lee graduated from Central Saint Martin's in 2010, and received the prestigious Harrods Award for her work there. J. JS Lee was launched in March 2010, and has since become a part of NEWGEN. We can certainly expect more great things from Jackie Lee.

xox Catherine

All photos by Catherine Everett

London Fashion Week S/S 2012: Orla Kiely

After receiving my press pass, I was able to access all exhibitions within Somerset House - including, to my surprise, Orla Kiely. It's quite obvious that Kiely was inspired by sportswear from the 1940's and 1950's, evident through silhouette, color, patterns, and details.

The execution of the presentation was quite interesting. Models either stood on pedestals or lounged on garden chaises. They stood inanimate until another model came as a replacement. The lighting was rather dim, but spotlights shone, highlighting the clothing drastically.








Characteristically feminine and retro inspired, a background film showed models frolicking, exploring and adventuring throughout summer settings. This gives insight into the purpose - it's not intended to be too proper that it's impossible to move. It's playful and youthful, yet still sophisticated.

The Orla Kiely woman isn't too prim. She's creative and charming, intelligent and thoughtful. She fancies wearing dresses, but isn't too afraid to live while wearing them.

xox Catherine

Photos via Orla Kiely, all others by Catherine Everett